The Charmey Via Ferrata

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There was a time when I would have gone to Charmey and climbed the Square Vide II route without hesitation. This is a K6 route that starts with an overhang, before continuing over several more overhangs. I tried the first part and decided not to continue. I climbed back down before getting over the overhang.

Years ago I would have done it because I went to climbing gyms every Thursday evening, and did via ferrata almost every weekend so I had a much stronger upper body. After six or seven years of not climbing much I have the upper body of a cyclist or hiker, rather than a climber.

It is for this reason that I chose not to do the K6 climb, and why I felt the lactic acid build up in my arms. I still know the technique and how to climb. The issue is that I can feel that my arm muscles tire much faster than they used to. In Square Vide 1 and 2, as they’re called in English you need muscle endurance to find it pleasant.

Fear didn’t play a role on this VF. It was all about lactic acid building up too fast. With a lot of VFs you stand, and clip and unclip while standing, without hanging from one arm but on this VF you’re clipping and unclipping in slightly overhanging environments.

As I said, a few years ago I would have done the k5 and K6 with ease.

The Value of Upper Body Strength

If we think in a linear manner then climbing, bouldering and regular Via ferrata would be the natural solution to building more endurance. Swimming, rowing, and outdoor gyms could also be used. So could indoor pull up bars, push-ups and more.

A Reason to Go Back

Over the years I have been with many groups to enjoy Via Ferrata and sometimes I have skipped either a section, as with Saillon, or an entire route, as in Bellevaux. The same is true of Charmey. The rational is simple. If you go to do a VF once, then it makes sense to do all of the ones that are within easy reach. If you know that the VF is a yearly thing, then it’s easy to say “I will do the easy route with the less experienced people.

In Charmey there are three routes and I did the medium one. Next time I could do either the easy, or the hard one, depending on how I feel. When I looked at the “map” of the Via Ferrata I found that the easy one looked like the most whimsical. The hard one is about pushing your physical fitness and the medium one is too, but without such pronounced overhangs.

And Finally

When I chose not to do Leukerbad it was about an extreme fear that I felt. I felt it driving up. I felt it hiking up. It was gone by the time I headed back down. If I had done that VF I might have traumatised myself. I didn’t like it at the peak of my Via Ferrata form.

With Charmey not doing the k6 route was about personal responsibility and fitness. I know that I need to strengthen my upper body, to be the lizard that I once was. Next year, or by the end of the season I may feel better, but for now I follow my instinct.

By following my instinct I saw that even the k5 was a workout, so I’m happy that I chose not to push myself too far. When the drive takes one hour you can afford to come back.